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Selecting Vintage and Antique Jewelry

Education, Vintage & Antique

vintage style natural ruby ring with white yellow diamonds

Vintage style ruby ring with yellow diamond support.

Vintage style ruby ring with yellow diamond support.

Selecting Vintage and Antique Jewelry is not easy, either for us as a jeweler stocking our cases or for our clients looking for the perfect engagement ring or gift. Federal Way Custom Jewelers is particular in what we offer to our clients, and every item has to be of the highest standard available and a good value. We have our own sources of first class vintage and antique jewelry suppliers that we have dealt with for many years, as well as sourcing items from auctions and local estates. The result is an ever changing selection of antique and estate jewelry. The following is a guide to selecting antique jewelry- but it also gives sellers a glimpse into our mind when we are buying antique pieces ourselves. 

There are three key things to keep in mind when considering and choosing a piece of estate or antique jewelry: the aesthetic value, the monetary value, and the condition value. The aesthetic value is the easiest to understand- you have to find the piece you think is beautiful, and buy it! But with antique jewels this can be harder than it sounds. Some clients have a particular wish list and end up having to wait for their dream ring to come on the market. Other clients fall in love with two necklaces and really struggle to choose between the two. Unlike custom jewelry, the benefit to antique items are that they are available to see in person, try on, and evaluate, but you are limited to the jeweler’s stock on hand. Sometimes we can work with our suppliers to source an item for you, or create something inspired by an antique. The fastest selling antique items are attractive, with large and/or high quality gemstones, pleasant designs, without being too bold, too dated, or too customized. We find that Art Deco items sell very well, along with Edwardian/Nouveau and Victorian pieces. 

The monetary value is one of the hardest factors to analyze when choosing an antique item. Every buyer wants to find a deal- and at FWCJ, we strive to price our items below market value, and we can do so due to low overhead and aggressive buying. That said, fine antique jewels are rare, and the rarity drives the selling price. A fine antique gold necklace from a known maker will sell for 3-5x the gold value, and 2-3x the price of an unsigned version. Thus a solid percentage of the item’s value is in who made it, when it was made, and how it looks today. The same can be said of antique diamond rings, which, especially when set in the original mounting, can sell for 50% above comparable modern stones. In general, antique jewels are priced based on their components (gold, diamonds, etc.) as well as their overall rarity (known makers, rare age) and the desirability of the item in its current form. A 1ct diamond in a solitaire will sell for less than the same diamond in a Victorian Halo mounting, which adds diamond weight, rarity, and aesthetic value. Not all antiques are as rare as others, just like not all estate items were made by Tiffany. As such, we have items in our cases from $200 to $20,000 and every price in between. Every item FWCJ sells over $1500 is accompanied by a complimentary appraisal from a 3rd party gem lab- this validates the details of the item and gives you a researched value for insurance. 

Vintage Diamond Ring with Center Diamond and Surrounding Filigree Patterns

Vintage Ring with Center Diamond & Surrounding Filigree Patterns

One of the hardest traits to determine when buying an antique is its condition, and thus its long term wear value. At FWCJ, every antique is fully inspected and restored by our master goldsmiths before being offered for sale, and as such is backed by our warranty. We still advise that clients insure their jewelry, new or old, especially those that are worn on a daily basis. Things get more complicated with antiques since they are often purchased with some wear and condition issues inherent to them. A slightly thin shank and minor wear to prongs should not detract a buyer or negatively impact value, so long as they know to expect a repair in a few years. But a cracked gallery, abraded gems, missing prongs, etc. are more serious condition issues which will lead to losses and prevent enjoyment of the piece in the near term. Even a fully restored antique is still an antique- some can be hundreds of years old- so we will work with you to learn your lifestyle and educate you as to which pieces can be worn without care, which pieces are more delicate, etc. 

Even for items not purchased with us, we do offer antique jewelry advising and restoration. Did you inherit a ring that you want to wear as your engagement ring? Maybe you bought a ring elsewhere that is having repair problems? We are happy to take a look and give you honest expert advice. We can educate you as to what you have and what it is worth, it its current condition versus with a complete restoration. We know that much value is sentimental, and we are proud to keep rings on hands for many generations. 

If you have an antique you are interested in selling- certainly contact us. While we do not buy everything, we can certainly take a look at your item and advise you as to its value and best ways of selling it. Sometimes selling to a jeweler is a great way to proceed, sometimes we will advise selling directly to a consumer, or having the item repaired prior to sale. A quick look through our shop will show the types of items we regularly buy and sell.

We hope you have enjoyed reading this article about how to select vintage and antique jewelry. This article really just glosses over the surface- we would love to show you our antique cases in person, and help you find the perfect antique piece. This would be a good time to check out our prices and vintage and antique products in our online store, or contact us to visit us in person. 

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Buying an engagement ring is a big deal — especially if it’s your first time and you’re planning a surprise proposal. You want the moment to be unforgettable, the ring to be perfect, and the reaction to be joyful.

But if you’re not careful, even small missteps during ring shopping can tip your partner off or result in a ring that misses the mark entirely.

To help you make the right choice without spoiling the surprise, here are five of the most common engagement ring shopping mistakes — and how to avoid them.

1. Not Doing Enough Research Before You Shop

Jumping into ring shopping without understanding the basics is one of the biggest mistakes first-time buyers make. If you don’t know the difference between a round cut and a princess cut — or you assume bigger always means better — you risk buying a ring that doesn’t match your partner’s style or values.

What to Do Instead:

  • Learn the 5 C’s: Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat, and Certification

  • Pay attention to the styles they admire (on friends, social media, etc.)

  • Browse ring types online before visiting a jeweler

Being informed gives you confidence, and it helps you spot quality and value when you see it.

2. Guessing Their Ring Size Without a Plan B

Getting the ring size wrong can turn a magical moment into a fumble — especially if the ring won’t go on, or worse, gets stuck. Asking them directly spoils the surprise, but guessing with no backup plan is risky.

What to Do Instead:

  • Secretly borrow one of their rings and have it sized

  • Ask a trusted friend or family member who might know

  • Use a ring sizing guide or tool while they’re sleeping (if you dare)

Pro Tip: If you have to guess, go slightly larger. It’s easier to resize down than up — and most jewelers, like FWCJ, offer complimentary resizing.

3. Talking Too Much or Being Obvious About Your Plans

If you start bringing up marriage or jewelry more than usual, your partner may suspect something’s up. Even casual mentions can start to unravel your surprise — especially if your partner is observant.

What to Do Instead:

  • Keep your research private (use incognito browsing!)

  • Enlist a trusted friend for feedback instead of asking them directly

  • Space out any ring-related conversations so they feel organic

The less you say, the more powerful your surprise will be.

4. Letting a Salesperson Talk You Into the Wrong Ring

When you walk into a jewelry store unprepared, it’s easy to get overwhelmed — and even easier to be upsold. A persuasive salesperson might convince you to buy something that looks impressive in-store, but doesn’t align with your partner’s taste or your budget.

What to Do Instead:

  • Set a clear budget before you go

  • Look for jewelers (like FWCJ) who focus on education, not upselling

  • Prioritize style and quality over size alone

Remember, your goal isn’t just to impress — it’s to choose a ring that feels like them.

5. Waiting Too Long to Start Shopping

This is a huge one — especially for surprise proposals. Many rings require adjustments, resizing, or customizations. Waiting until the last minute can mean shipping delays, limited inventory, or not enough time to make it perfect.

What to Do Instead:

  • Start shopping at least 6–8 weeks before your planned proposal date

  • Communicate with your jeweler about timelines and turnaround

  • Consider proposing with a temporary setting and finalizing the design together later

Planning ahead gives you room to breathe and keeps your proposal stress-free.

Final Thoughts: Get the Ring, Keep the Surprise

Buying an engagement ring doesn’t have to be stressful — even if you’re doing it all in secret. By avoiding these common mistakes, you can make confident decisions and deliver a magical moment your partner will never forget.

At FWCJ, we help first-time buyers every day — guiding you through the process, answering questions, and making sure your ring is as perfect as the proposal. Whether you’re just starting your search or ready to make a move, our team is here to help.

Start your journey today — Schedule an appointment or stop by our store to speak with a jeweler who understands the importance of your moment.

FAQs: Engagement Ring Shopping for First-Time Buyers

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What are the biggest mistakes on engagement rings?
Common mistakes include guessing ring size, shopping too late, buying without research, overspending, and choosing a ring based on trends instead of personal style.
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What should I know before going engagement ring shopping?
You should understand the 5 C’s (Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat, Certification), know your budget, have a sense of your partner’s style, and leave time for resizing or custom work.
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What are the 5 C’s of buying a ring?

  • Cut – Determines sparkle

  • Color – Measures colorlessness of the diamond

  • Clarity – Refers to internal flaws or inclusions

  • Carat – The weight (and size) of the diamond

  • Certification – Confirms the diamond’s quality and grading

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Can I buy a ring without my partner knowing?
Yes! With the right strategy, you can choose a ring that fits their style and size without giving away the surprise. This blog covers exactly how to do it.